OC703 Acoustic Panel

 

Acoustic panel frame with muslin backing.

I bought a box of Owens Corning 703 2” fiberglass boards a few years back, and had used it to make two 4” thick panels. The two remaining OC703 boards were sitting in storage, as my focus moved on to other DIY projects. I across some leftover 1x5 lumber recently, and pushed myself to use up the OC703.

The joints of the 25.5”x49.5”x4.5” frame were glued and reinforced with corner braces. I stapled bleached muslin fabric onto the frame. I may eventually attach an external frame of 1x1 lumber on the front to hide the staples for aesthetic purposes. It is not a high priority at the moment.

Panel with 4” of OC703 stuffed into frame.

Edit - 10/18/22 - I had some extra white paint to use on the sides of the panel to make it more presentable. I ended up screwing 1”x2” pine strips onto the front face to hide the staples.

Completed 4” thick OC703 panel.

Next, I am thinking of building 6” thick panels with Safe ‘n’ Sound, and soffit-style bass traps with fluffy insulation to  improve my room’s acoustics. 

Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker

Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker

I recently got the Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker in the mail. I did not have much luck with a solder wick in the past, although that is likely due to user error. I came across some videos on Youtube which were very helpful in demonstrating how to use the SS-02 to desolder components off PCBs.

The main attraction to this tool is that the silicone tip is rated for 350ºC/662ºF, which can withstand the heat of my typical desoldering work. I can push the tip directly down onto the joint and iron tip without worrying about the solder sucker melting. It looks like the SS-02 is all metal in construction, and will be will durable. I don't know how much it matters that it was made in Japan, but the SS-02 is solid feeling and the design considerations in regards to heat makes it worth the price.

Vox Lil' Night Train C19 clipped, but not desoldered.

Vox Lil' Night Train C19 removed off PCB. Green wire installed in one hole for now.

My first experiment was to completely remove the bright cap C19 on the PCB of my Vox Lil' Night Train head.When I originally modded the amp, I clipped the component without removing it off the PCB. I did not have any desoldering tools on hand at the time, and did not have any luck desoldering the the capacitor off the pads. I was able to get the excess solder off the pads with the SS-02, knowing that I could shove the tip onto the PCB. The PCB holes were clear of solder, with the solder pads intact. I will be adding a switch onto to make a bright cap switchable on this amp.

Now that I am a little more confident in my ability to cleanly desolder through-hole components, I will look into further modifying my Jet City JCA22H head. I would like to install a choke, and see if swapping components to SLO values will be worthwhile. I would like to change out the filter caps in some of my older 80's audio equipment, component swaps I would not consider performing without the right tools.